THE EXCURSIONS CONTRASTING EXPEDITIONS INTO THE DESERT

IN 1998-DJERBA My most memorable excursion was one from the hotel which I set up by chance. My wife wanted to spend some time at the poolside but I wanted to keep active even though it was hot weather. So I hailed a taxi and "negotiated" with the driver, who was French, to take me out for the day into the desert !!!! I packed a bottle of water, my camera and a cap and climbed into the taxi. We set out and I realised that the driver spoke only french !! I had to use what bits of french I know to converse with the driver while he drove into the sands. After a short while it got easier as we gesticulated at each other and we got on quite well. Soon we were deep into the dunes and it was sand for 360 degrees. He apparently knew where he was and we soon found ourselves in the middle of a clump of palm trees so we stopped and I was introduced to the fresh date hanging within reach. Slightly woody, but oh so tasty, I managed to eat a few and enjoyed the experience. I motioned to get my bottle of water. The driver shook his head, bent down and picked up what looked like two stones. He gave it one to me and squeezed the other above his mouth. Liquid came out of the object and he drank it !! I did the same and it tasted slightly metallic but refreshing. OLIVES On bushes nearby were olives so we tried those as well. Finally, on yet another bush were orange balls which turned out to be pomegranates. A complete meal, and enough to keep us going. We then set out again and he drove deeper into the desert. He chatted and I caught every other word, one of which was chameaux, which is french for camels ! We came round a dune to almost crash into a tent made of brightly coloured matting. The locals came out and made a fuss of us both and I was offered meat and drink. I was told that the meat was chameau and the drink tasted rather like weak red wine. POMEGRANATE It transpired that it was made from pomegranates, lemon juice and sugar. All I needed now was some "manna" and I was replete. However, this was not forthcoming and we said goodbye to the Bedouins and set out again. We had not gone far when I saw a tiny figure walking in the sand ------ dressed in school uniform with a satchel on the back. As we passed, the little girl smiled and waved and I was told by the driver to look to the left. There in the desert was a school !! There were other kids milling around and it was just like a school any where in the world. Fancy, a school out in the desert.. We drove on and saw mirages, the odd oasis and the camel trains. It was a real shame when we had to return to the hotel. When we arrived safely, I was asked for........£15 only (equivalent)...It was worth EVERY PENNY so I gave a good tip.... IN 2001-SKANES When we returned to Tunisia three years later, we decided to try the north eastern area round Skanes and Monastir. Djerba was the emerging holiday destination and was not yet heavily developed. In contrast, Skanes was the already established area, and was being promoted heavily on satellite TV and in the Sunday papers. From the restful Isle of Djerba we were transported to the bustling and hustling of Skanes where you just could not rest; you were talked to by sales people trying to get you on trips. We saw an interesting comparison yet we actually enjoyed both holidays for differing reasons. On Djerba, I had gone into the "desert" and seen unspoilt areas and people living as they done for thousands of years. In Skanes, it was highly motivated with a desire to get everyone involved. So this time we landed at Tunis airport and were taken by bus down the coast to our hotel which was perfect for our needs. It was the "Liberty" and was one of the newer ones. As on every holiday we can remember, we landed in a heavy deluge, a rainpour which is rare in Tunisia. The hotel reception was awash and when we arrived in our room, three floors up, the storm had been so bad that the rain had flooded the room. Carole was not amused but that late at night, all I wanted was a good nights sleep, then I could face any floods..All I had to do was remember to wear wellies when I went to the Loo !! We woke the next morning and all traces of water had gone and our room was dry as a bone. However we could see outside on the roads just how heavy the downpour had been and it took three days for the floor-level flooding to go away. So we booked some excursions and all went well until the "Bedouin Evening" came into sight. Carole was feeling a bit rough so she more or less insisted that I went on my own. Possibly talk of sheeps eyes and similar rare delicacies didn't help. So I decided to "let" Carole have the evening on the hotel balcony and I would voyage yet again into the desert to see the locals. The coach came for me last !! It had been round most of the main hotels picking up ones and twos and now we had a full complement..The road was fine to start with as we proceeded through the little villages. Then the driver took a right turn onto a cart track which went on its spirally way out of sight of habitation. Then just as we were all praying for the coach to stop, we saw what looked like a medium-sized circus tent in among palm trees round a small oasis !!! It looked quite impressive and we now all became quite thrilled with anticipation. We parked in line with a number of other coaches and we were told the identity number of ours so we could find it after the show. We were then welcomed with drinks and had our pictures taken individually with a couple of Bedouins ! We were now led to the arena and given seats on long tables set at right angle to the arena. Food was served, no eyeballs but some interesting variations on chicken and cous-cous. More drink came and we were soon enjoying the evening. The show that followed was excellent, with dancing, singing, balancing-pots-on-heads and horse riding, sometimes all at the same time !!! Oh, how we cheered and clapped !! ON ME 'ED, MATE One of the company came over to me during an interval, and under his disguise, I recognised him to be one of the taxi drivers we had used earlier that week. He made a very friendly fuss and introduced me to his colleagues. (I must have given him a good tip !) I took miles of video and the final act was stunning. Too soon the evenings entertainment came to an end. We all piled back in the coach, delayed by the people who forgot our number. Now I was the last man off !! We went round every hotel dropping off, and I was glad to see my hotel eventually. Carole had had a restful evening and was feeling much better. She was quite jealous when she saw my video through the hotel TV. MORE TO COME SOON BACK